Waltham Grade No. 12 Model 1884 Pocket Watch (1889)

About this Waltham No. 12

This 136-year-old Waltham is an exceptional timepiece that presents a breathtaking, complete package. Finished at the Waltham factory in Massachusetts in 1889, this 14-size openface Model 1884 Grade No. 12 features a spectacular fancy enamel dial and a solid 14k gold case that are equally stunning, each elevating the artistry of the other. The remarkable solid gold exterior boasts dense vermicelli engraving with faceted five-point stars surrounding a floral and scrollwork monogram. It perfectly frames a dial that is a masterpiece in its own right: executed in a brilliant jeweled style, it features ornate Arabic numerals, a recessed seconds subdial, and elaborate gold ornamentation. Scalloped gold cartouches surround the hour numbers, while delicate scrollwork beautifully highlighted by red and clear jewel garnets accents the Waltham signature.

Powering this exquisite pairing is a competent, honest piece of American industrial watchmaking. The Grade No. 12 is an 11-jewel gilded movement with jewels in settings and a compensation balance, built on the Model 1884's 3/4 split-plate layout. Serving as Waltham's workmanlike-tier offering in that line, this specific movement is pendant-set, meaning the crown seamlessly handles both winding and hand-setting without the need to remove the bezel.

The case and dial together serve as a masterclass in Gilded Age ornamentation. The solid gold case showcases vermicelli, Italian for "little worms," a dense, continuous curling line-work that was one of the signature decorative vocabularies of late-nineteenth-century American gold cases. The faceted star overlay, meticulously hand-cut so each point catches light independently, perfectly complements the gleaming jewel-like accents on the dial. Unlike gold-filled cases where this pattern was merely stamped, the work on solid gold examples like this was done by hand or on an indexed lathe, which is evident in the crisp depth and sharpness of the engraving.

The 14-size Model 1884 is a fascinating quirk of Waltham's catalog, and its true appeal today lies in its perfectly balanced proportions. It serves as an ideal bridge between the heavy, robust 16-size railroad and service watches of the era, and the much smaller 12-size dress watches that later became fashionable, a size many at the time considered too diminutive. The 14-size fits perfectly in between. It makes for the perfect everyday carry, remaining large enough to be considered a substantial, masculine timepiece. Such a confident physical presence was fitting for the era it was born into. Dating to 1889, it entered the world during a pivotal year when Benjamin Harrison took the oath of office, the Eiffel Tower opened in Paris, and North Dakota, South Dakota, Montana, and Washington were admitted to the Union. A watch as ornate and fully realized as this entered a country rapidly completing its westward expansion.

All Vintage Pocket Watches are cleaned, oiled and adjusted for accuracy and warranted for one full year from the date of purchase.